MOUNT TEIDE – Canary Islands, Spain (February 22, 2022) – 12,188′

Strava link: https://www.strava.com/activities/6726709431

Mount Teide is an active volcano on the island of Tenerife in the Canary Islands and is the highest point on Spanish territory at 12,188′ above sea level. When I began researching a potential trip to the Canary Islands I discovered photos of Mount Teide and soon decided that climbing it was something I had to do. Shortly after booking my airfare to the Canaries I applied for and was granted a free permit for the Pico del Teide trail (most of Mount Teide can be climbed without a permit but to hike the final couple hundred meters up the summit cone to the crater rim requires a permit, which is intended to limit visitor numbers to protect the resource). I selected an 11:00am-1:00pm timeslot for my summit access, which would give me ample time to reach the top if I started early.

My first view of Mount Teide was through the plane window on my flight from Amsterdam to Tenerife.

I scheduled my summit of Teide for Tuesday, 2/22/2022, the second full day of my trip. It turns out I chose well because had I climbed Teide any other day of my trip the clouds would have obstructed everything.

It took longer to drive to get to the trailhead than I anticipated and I arrived to find the main parking lot full. I had to backtrack and park a half mile away, then walk the road to the Montaña Blanca trailhead, which sits at an elevation of about 7,750′. My official start time was about 9am and it was already bright and sunny when I began hiking up the winding trail. The first section was a steady climb on a wide, rocky road with easy footing.

I wore a long-sleeved undershirt, Patagonia fleece, and rain jacket to break the wind, which was really whipping. I was glad to have gloves and a beanie, too. For hydration, I had a 2L bladder in my running vest with water mixed with Pedialyte powder, a combination that has seemed to help me avoid the worst of altitude sickness on Colorado fourteeners, where I typically start feeling the effects above 12,500′. By comparison, the summit crater of Mount Teide rises to only 12,188′, but I had also slept near sea level and on this solo adventure abroad I wanted to be certain I had ample hydration and electrolytes to make it up and back again in good shape.

The north-facing slopes still had snow, and many of the small plants were glazed in ice. The wind was coming from the south but being north of the sloping shoulder of volcanic rock didn’t provide much protection and it still swept through at 10-15 mph. This was the first time I’ve climbed a mountain with views of the ocean and I found that to be a rewarding experience! My pace was slow with all the photos I was taking and I realized I needed to keep moving to stay in my 11am-1pm permit window for accessing the Pico del Teide trail to reach the very top.

I followed the Montaña Blanca trail to a base of the Sendero 7 trail, the steeper and more rugged single track that would take me most of the way up Teide, to its connection with the Pico del Teide trail. By Colorado standards, Sendero 7 would be class 1 with maybe some “easy” class 2 in spots. It was a grind, like climbing stairs for a couple hours straight, with rocks strewn on the path and snow and ice in spots, but overall it was not overly technical and lacked significant exposure.

I passed several other hikers and trail runners on my ascent of Sendero 7, including some going up and others already making their way back down. This section of trail features lots of angular rock, some shrubby vegetation, and many tight switchbacks winding up to the Refugia de Altavista, a permanent shelter that can be (or at least could be, before Covid-19) reserved in advance for rustic overnight stays.

I passed a couple guys from the UK at around the 10,000′ mark but not before chatting for a while (it was nice to converse in English, but also a good excuse to catch my breath). Soon thereafter I reached the Refugio de Altavista and hiked past it without stopping, estimating I would probably reach the summit shortly after noon given my current pace.

Above the Refugio the trail was all snow and ice (packed down by previous foot traffic), and the wind was noticeably colder and stronger up there. I was happy to have my trekking poles for extra balance on those slippery sections (I was wearing Hoka Speedgoat 4 with no added traction).

Eventually, at an elevation of about 11,600′, the trail reached a “T”. To the right/north was a short spur to Mirador de Fortaleza (a scenic lookout), but I turned left/south. The trail leveled out and even descended slightly as it wrapped around to the south facing side of the volcano. I reached another building, the top of the teleferico (cable car, which wasn’t in operation that day). It was about 12:15pm and I had reached the connector to Pico del Teide. I was less than half a mile and 600′ of gain from the very top.

The wind on the summit cone was blasting at 30-40 mph and the temperature up there was in the 20s F. There was no shelter from the wind and I had to stop and dig a buff out of my vest to cover my nose. I pushed to the top, and as soon as I made it to the edge of the crater I was assaulted with the pungent odor of sulfur dioxide outgassing from the fumaroles. Don’t smell that on Colorado peaks! Mount Teide is an active volcano that has erupted as recently as 1909 and 1798.

The trail edges the crater rim to the high point, on the north side. I located the benchmark and stepped onto the top of the world quickly, then ducked beyond the shelter of the rock before the wind blew me off the volcano. Fortunately there was a spot to sit out of the wind and enjoy the view, and a snack, at the top.

After soaking in the sights and enjoying a granola bar and some cashews at the top I hurried back down the summit cone face-first into that horrid wind. It was much more bearable after I passed the top of the teleferico. From there I followed my tracks back down Sendero 7.

I ran most of the descent down back to the Montaña Blanca trail, only stopping to snap a few photos.

When I reached the Montaña Blanca trail I took an out-and-back on a short side trail that ended in a little loop. The wind was almost as wild there as it was at the top but it felt warmer (because it was) at 9,000′.

I finished the successful Mount Teide climb with 14 miles and 5,515′ gain in about 6.5 hours. I could’ve done it faster, but that wasn’t the point. I enjoyed my adventure and took lots of breaks for photos, snacks, and to live in the moment and take it all in. It was one of the most memorable hikes/runs I’ve ever done. When I got back to my rental car and shut the door it felt so amazing (and quiet) to not be in the wind!

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